Thursday, February 12, 2009

Antarctic Expedition Team

(In one post, I said I would write about the lecturers and others on the ship. Here, at long last, is that explanation.)
The volunteers such as myself on this cruise are part of the Shore Expedition Team. The main Antarctic Expedition Team is comprised of the lecturers, the Zodiac drivers, a Beach Master and Ice Master - all led by the Expedition Team Leader, Dr. Peter Carey. After leaving University of Alaska-Fairbanks where I met him, Peter pursued his doctorate at University of Canterbury in Christchurch, New Zealand. He is a zoologist who has made more than 70 trips to Antarctica. As the Antarctic expedition team leader, Peter is basically in charge of all the excursions and itinerary on that end, in addition to supervising the group. For example, when a shore landing was cancelled because the waves were too high to allow for it, it was Peter that planned for scenic routes and diversions to try to keep the passengers happy. (And when they aren´t - he is the one who hears the complaints first. ) He would provided narration when traveling along the Antarctic Peninsula or South Shetland Islands, for example. He also conducts the mandatory briefings prior to shore landings - which includes the rules for observing wildlife and safety on the Zodiacs. One of the first lectures of the cruise was by Dr. Carey on penguins - as these enchanting birds are emblematic of some many people's vision of Antarctica (particularly, so because of the films "March of the Penguins" and "Happy Feet"?)

The other lecturers and members of the shore team in general are an impressive lot as well - not only academically but in their life experiences. Two of the other lecturers also have a Phd attached to their names. Biologist Dr. Colin Miskelly of New Zealand lectured on birds, centering on the albatrosses and petrels, the large species which glide the oceans we´d be traveling, while Dr. Sarah Magar, a Kiwi glaciologist presented talks on Andean and Antarctic landforms, climate change, and associated subjects. Presenting the other lectures were: Malcolm MacFarlane, also a Kiwi, covering early explorers in the area; and in another talk describing life at the Scott base in Antarctica (where he spent a winter); Shaun Powell, an American, on marine mammals in this area; Gabriela Roland, an Argentinian now living in New Zealand, lecturing on social history of Chile (including Pinochet's dictatorship),the indigenous people who lived in Patagonia and women in Antarctica (from companions to explorers); and Noel Miller, an Australian artist, on art done in and about the Antartic and also the photographers Hurley and Ponti from the Shackleton and Scott expeditions.


The experience of the other half of the team - the Zodiac drivers - is nothing to be sneezed at either. They could all be considered way over-qualified for the job. Resumes range from competitive jet boat drivers to a commercial boat captain. Several operate adventure-type tourism operations. One is also a commercial aviation pilot and several of these same individuals are medics. For some, this is just a neat way to spend the southern summer before they return to the "real jobs." Heading up the operation on the landings, i.e. directing both the Zodiac drivers, passengers, and shore assistance people, was a retired U.S. Coast Guard captain in his 26th Antarctic season. (This cruise was his last.) For 12 years, he had been either been in command or involved on icebreakers in the Arctic and Antarctic, such as the Polar Star. Rounding out the team was the "Ice Master" who works with the ship captain when navigating through the icy waters near the Antarctic Peninsula and other areas in this region.

Needless to say, I felt a bit out of my league in this company - but everyone was great. The volunteers, such as myself, were all invited by Peter to provide additional help during the landings in Antarctica. On the first cruise, they included two women from Australia, a New Zealand couple, and a 19-year-old college student, in addition to myself. On this cruise, joining me are a couple from New Zealand and a woman from the Boston area.

Our job is mainly to help organize the passengers during the shore landings, help them in and out of the Zodiacs, and make sure they stay in designated areas and aren't getting too close to the wildlife. At Half Moon Bay, where I've worked 3 landings, we also frequently had to assist some passengers on areas that were a bit more difficult to walk on (due to loose shore rocks) or steepness. At times, we're asked questions as they assume that we must have some expertise; so I would try to steer them to one of the lecturers who would be posted around the landing area for questions and assistance.

We wore bright neon green vests reading "Penguin Patrol" on the back - quite the fashion statement - and on several occasions I posed for photos ("back side, please" as that is where the logo was displayed).


In addition to all the above groups, the Expedition Team circle broadened for social occasions - dinner, etc. to includes guests and family. Sue and Jane were two in this category who I spent quite a bit of time with. Sue was the wife of one of the Zodiac drivers and Jane was her friend and guest. (Sue's husband will be getting off in the Falklands, so I will be doing some touring with him and another Zodiac driver).


Shore Landings

Before the ship's first shore landing, Expedition Leader Peter provided a briefing which was mandatory for all passengers to attend. He explained the permit that is required of all visitors to Antarctica and that of course the Discovery passengers were covered under the ship's permit, issued through the United States. Trips to Antarctica are increasingly popular. This month alone there are about 30 different ships in this area. Annually, this side of Antartica (around the Antarctica Peninsula, Weddell Sea area) receives about 40,000 visitors . In comparison, the other side - Ross Ice Shelf side, where the McMurdo & Scott bases are located - receives only about 450.


Under the permit, only 100 people may be ashore at these landing sites at any one time. (Which seems a bit much now to me as the sites weren't that large). The passengers were arranged into color groups of 100 each. Each Zodiac would disgorge 10-12 people at a time until a color group had all had their visit; then the next color group would begin staging.


Peter's briefing included the appropriate viewing rules - such as how far away to stay and not to be too loud, or sudden in one's movements. Often, the penguins would walk directly towards people, so they were directed to stop and wait for the penguin to cross in front of them, which afforded great photos.

As the Zodiac bumped into shore, the Beach Master would first let the passengers know how much time they had at the area, then instruct them on how to exit the boat (so they didn't fall in or go over their boots.) My task one day was helping them in and out of the boats which I really enjoyed. It helped me stay warmer than some of the other tasks.

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